Among Rome’s traditional dishes, amatriciana is perhaps the one that divides opinion the most—and wins over the most people.
Some people prefer it with bucatini, others with spaghetti. But everyone agrees on one thing: when it’s done right, you’ll never forget it.
If you want to know in advance where to eat in Rome’s historic center to find authentic Roman cuisine, start there.
In this article, we trace the history of amatriciana, its traditional ingredients, and why this dish has become one of the symbols of Lazio cuisine.
In this article:
- The History of Amatriciana: From Amatrice to Rome
- The original ingredients: guanciale, tomatoes, and Pecorino Romano
- Bucatini all’amatriciana in Rome: the perfect pasta shape
- Where to eat amatriciana in central Rome
The History of Amatriciana: From Amatrice to Rome
The name says it all. Amatriciana comes from Amatrice, a town in the province of Rieti, in the mountainous region of Lazio on the border with Abruzzo.
Even before tomatoes came along, there was gricia: guanciale, pecorino, and pepper. It is the basic dish from which amatriciana is directly derived.
When tomatoes first appeared in the cuisine of Lazio, someone added them to gricia. Rome embraced amatriciana with the same ease with which it embraces everything that comes from the Lazio countryside and makes it its own.
Today, it is traditionally associated with Roman cuisine just as much as carbonara, even though their geographical origins differ.
It is one of the most recognizable traditional Roman dishes in the world.
The original ingredients: guanciale, tomatoes, and Pecorino Romano
The original amatriciana has three main ingredients, and one could write a whole book about each one.
Guanciale comes first. Not pancetta, not smoked pancetta: guanciale.
It comes from the pork cheek, has a higher fat content, and a more robust flavor. When browned in a pan, it releases juices that form the base of the sauce.
The tomatoes should be flavorful, not watery. Add the Pecorino Romano at the end of cooking, after removing the pan from the heat, so it doesn’t become rubbery.
No garlic, no onion, no extra oil. The same strict approach is found in another great classic: cacio e pepe, made only with pecorino cheese and black pepper, without a single additional ingredient.
Bucatini all’amatriciana in Rome: the perfect pasta shape
The shape of pasta is a serious matter.
In Rome, Amatriciana is traditionally served with bucatini, a long, thick pasta with a hole in the center.
Bucatini holds the sauce well and keeps it in place, but it takes a bit of skill to eat without making a mess.
The pasta should be al dente. The balance between the fat of the guanciale, the acidity of the tomatoes, and the savory flavor of the pecorino is what makes all the difference.
Where to eat amatriciana in central Rome
Virginiae, located at Via di Parione 41, is a traditional Roman restaurant in the heart of the historic center, just a short walk from Piazza Navona.
I bucatini all’amatriciana sono uno dei piatti più ordinati e la ricetta segue la tradizione senza deviazioni. Bernardo e Daniel De Luca seguono personalmente la selezione degli ingredienti.
And if you want to understand why Virginiae stands out from the many other restaurants in the city center, the restaurant’s history explains its origins and how it operates.
The restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner, and on Mondays for dinner only.
You can book your table directly online!